CHIKANKARI
Type: Embroidery
Introduced by : Noorjehan
Inspired By : Turkish Embroidery.
THE SUBTLE CRAFT
The chikan work of Lucknow
is the delicate and skillful embroidery done with white thread. This craft
introduced by Noor Jehan, the beautiful wife of Jehangir, may have been
inspired by Turkish embroidery, as the the name 'chikan' seems to have
been derived from the Persian word, either 'Chikan', 'Chikin' or
'Chikeen'. 
It means a kind of cloth wrought with needle-work. The designs are said
to have been evolved by Noorjehan, herself. Although it originated as a
court craft, today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial
activity.
The work became popular in a number of important cities of the
Indo-Gangetic plains such as
Delhi ,
Agra, Rampur,
Varanasi,
Patna and
Gaya . But
the supremacy of Lucknow
remained unchallenged.
The Royal Patronage
Chikankari received great impetus during the Nawabi period. The finely
embroidered muslin came to be closely identified with the Nawabi culture
and became an intrinsic part of it. The Chikankari tradition gradually
filtered down the masses of common people and became a part of their daily
life.
The Types Of Embriodery
A variation of the chikan work is the 'Bukhia' or Shadow Work. It is a
complicated style of embroidery in which the inverted satin forms are out
lined on the right side with minute stitches, while the thread
accummulates on the wrong side giving an opaque quality to the work. The
shadow effect is created by the stitches that cover the back of the cloth
in the style of the herringbone.
A similar effect is created by cutting out tiny flowers and leaves in the
same material as the basic fabric and then applying them on the wrong
side. The work is done so dexterously that the turned in edges of the cut
pieces are scarcely visible from the front of the work.
Other stitches like the darning stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch etc.
are also used. All these stitches are sometimes used individually but more
often in combination of two or more together to fill the whole motif.
There are minute variations on these basic stitches and much manipulation
in terms of shape and size.
The design depends for its effect on the variety of stitches used and
different grades of threads used to form the patterns which include, the
lace like jali, the opaque fillings and the delicacy or boldness of
outline and details. The most beautiful part of chikan work is the open
work ground, an effect of drawn thread work is achieved without drawing
out any.
Floral Themes
The source of most design motifs in Chikankari is Mughal. These motifs
can also be seen in the ornamentation of Mughal buildings like the Taj
Mahal and the monuments of Fatehpur Sikri. There are various stitches used
in Chikankari. They vary according to the kind of designs and materials
used. The most frequently used stitch is the satin stitch. This is a very
delicate and minute stitch.
Suitability
Chikan work has very light, gossamer - like quality. This makes it very
suitable for the seemingly hot climate of the northern plain region. It
can be assumed that Chikankari, using sheer fabrics evolved as a logical
answer to the problem of keeping cool and also providing adornment and
beauty to one's personality. The light chikan saris are perfect for summer
wear. Men prefer to wear their chikan kurtas during summer evenings.
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