TIKSE
Main Attractions: Tikse Gompa, Maitreya Temple, Dingy Du Khang
Monastic Festivity: Tikse Gostor
An Impressive Buddhist Landmark
Ladakh's most photographed and architecturally impressive Gompa is at
Tikse, 19-km southeast of
Leh
. Founded in the 15th century, its whitewashed Chortens and cubic monks
quarters rise in ranks up the sides of a craggy sun bleached bluff,
crowned by an imposing ochre and red painted temple complex whose gleaming
golden finials are visible for miles in every direction.
A metalled road cuts up the empty west side of the hill from the main
highway to the monastery's small car park. If one arrives by a minibus
from Leh, then move across the waste ground below the Gompa and follow the
footpath up through its lower buildings to the main entrance, where monks
issue tickets.
Maitreya Temple
Inaugurated in 1980 by the dalai lama, the spacious shrine of Maitreya
Temple is built around a gigantic 14m high gold faced Buddha to come,
seated not on a throne as is normally the case, but in the lotus position.
The bright murals on the wall behind, painted by monks from Lingshet Gompa
in Zanskar, depict scenes from Maitreya's life.
Dingy Du-Khang
Tikse's garish modern temple may have had hours of work lavished upon it,
but its dingy Du-khang, at the far end of the courtyard up a steep flight
of steps, hasn't seen a lick of paint in centuries. Faded murals of
ghoulish Tantric deities peer out of the gloom of the old prayer hall,
which contrary to appearances is still in everyday use. The key keeper
will show one around the tiny chapels behind the head lama's throne,
pointing out the ancient cloth bound manuscripts stacked in wooden racks
against the sidewalls. Before one leaves the Du-khang, check out the
enormous Thangkas stored on the shelf opposite the main doorway. These are
unrolled once a year during the annual autumn Chaam dance festival, Tikse
Gustor.
View From The Roof Top
For most foreign visitors, however, the highlight of a trip to Tikse is
the view from its lofty roof terrace. A patchwork of barley fields
stretches across the floor of the valley, fringed by rippling snow flecked
desert mountains and string of Tolkien-esque monasteries, palaces, and
Ladakhi villages: Shey and Stok to the northwest, Matho on the far side of
the Indus, and Stakna crowning a knoll to the south. Come here early
enough in the morning, and you'll be able to enjoy this impressive
panorama accompanied by primeval groans from the Gompa's gargantuan
Tibetan trumpets - played on the rooftop at Puja time.
Tikse's
Festivity
Tikse has an important festival with mask dances, the Tikse Gostor, on
the 18th and 19th day of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar.
Tikse Oracle
The Tikse oracle is the most important oracle in Ladakh. An old man in
the village is supposed to have supernatural powers. In a trance this
layman, for he is not a Lama, is possessed by a spirit and speaks Tibetan,
a language that he cannot normally understand. He is said to be able to
perform miraculous cures on beasts and men. With the help of a small tube
he can 'suck' diseases from the bodies of the ill. He also givens advice
for healing and can predict the future. In 1975 a new oracle appeared, the
young wife of a Leh carpenter. Even in her youth there were special
indications of her status as an oracle.
Printing
Tikse Gompas possesses a rich and beautiful library with many hand
written or painted books. Recent editions are produced by block printing,
as in old Tibet. This procedure is also used today for the printing of the
holy books Kandshur, Tibetan gka-hgyur, 'the translated work' of Buddha
and Tandshur, 'the translated teachings' of the Lamaist religious teachers
Bu-Ston (1290-1364 AD). The latter consists of a 225 volumes commentary on
the Kandshur!
Wooden printing plates are made up for each page and pressed by hand. The
many hundred volumes indicate how much space the printing plates must take
up in the monastery. Older and more highly regarded editions are often
printed not black on white but painted with gold ink on black lacquered
paper. These are decorated with Buddha figures. The individual pages are
not bound up but kept as collections of loose sheets, wrapped in cloth
between two wooden boards, tied up with a strap and stored on the shelves.
Tikse Gompa also has the most beautiful library.
HOW TO GET THERE
Road: The last bus back to Leh from Tikse leaves at 6.00 pm.
WHERE TO STAY
The village's Skalzang Chamba Hotel, run by the monastery, offers accommodation, and serves good food in their garden restaurant.
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