TABO MONASTERY
Also known as: Tabo-Chos-Khor
Founded By: 996 A.D.
Houses: Deva Gyatsho
The
rugged hills around Tabo house a tiny hamlet that is home to some 350
people. The Tabo monastery, also referred to as Tabo Chos-Khor- 'doctrinal
circle' or 'doctrinal enclave' is a complex that holds nine temples, 23
chortens, a monks' chamber and an extension that houses the nuns' chamber.
On the sheer cliff-face above the enclave are a series of caves, which
were used as dwellings by the monks and include an 'assembly hall'. Faint
traces of the paintings that once embellished the rock face can be
discerned. Even today, Tabo holds the distinction of being the largest
monastic complex in Spiti. Constructed in 996 AD, Tabo was the brainchild
of the great translator and teacher, Rinchensang Po.
THE TEMPLES OF THE COMPLEX
The Temple of the Enlightened Gods (gTsug Lha-khang): This is also
known as the Assembly Hall (Du-Khang) and forms the core of the complex.
It houses a vestibule, an assembly hall and a sanctum. The central figure
in the assembly hall is the four folds Vairocana. In Vajrayana Buddhism,
he is regarded as one of the five spiritual sons of the Adibuddha, who was
the self-creative primordial Buddha. He is portrayed here in a posture "turning
the wheel of law".
On brackets arrayed along the walls and with stylised flaming circles
around them, are life size stucco images of what are commonly known as the
Vajradhatu Mandala. These image number thirty-three in all, and are the
other deities of the pantheon. With five Bodhisattvas of the Good Age
placed within, the sanctum is immediately behind the assembly hall. The
walls around the stuccoes are elaborately adorned with wall paintings that
depict the life of the Buddha.
The Golden Temple (gSer-khang): believed to have been layered with
gold, Senge Namgyal, ruler of Ladakh, exhaustively renovated this shrine
in the 16th century. The walls and ceiling are covered with murals.
The Mystic Mandala Temple or Initiation Temple (dKyil-hKhor-khang):
The wall facing the door is embellished by a massive painting of
Vairocana, who is surrounded by the eight Bodhisattvas. Mystic mandalas
cover the other areas. It is here, that the initiation to monkhood takes
place.
The Bodhisattva Maitreya Temple (Byams-Pa Chen-po Lha-khang) -
This shrine houses the image of the Bodhisattva Maitreya that is more than
six-meter high. The temple has a hall, vestibule and sanctum. The array of
murals within also depicts the monastery of Tashi-Chunpo and Lhasa's
Potala palace.
The Temple of Dromton (Brom-ston Lha-khang) - The temple lies on
the northern edge of the complex and is said to have been founded by
Dromton (1008-1064 AD), an important disciple of Atisha. The doorway is
intricately carved and the inner walls are covered by murals.
The above shrines are said to be the earliest in the Tabo complex and
the following are later additions:
The Chamber of Picture Treasures (Z'al-ma): This is an anteroom of
sorts attached to 'the temple of enlightened gods'. It too is covered with
paintings, which are in the Tibetan style.
The Large Temple of Drom ton (Brom-ston Lha-khang): The second
largest temple in the complex, this has a floor area of over seventy
square meters, while the portico and niche add another forty-two square
meters. The front wall sports the figure of the Sakyamuni, flanked by
Sariputra and Maha Maugdalayana. The other walls depict the eight Medicine
Buddhas and Guardian Kings. The wooden planks of the ceiling are also
painted.
The Mahakala Vajra-bhairava Temple (Gon-khang): temple enshrines
the protective deity of the Geluk-pa sect. Fierce deities people the room
and it is only entered after protective meditation. Often it is also
called known as 'the temple of horror'.
The White Temple (dKAR-abyum Lha-khang): The walls of this shrine
are also intricately adorned leaving a low dado for the monks and nuns to
lean against
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