NEEDLEWORK OF GUJARAT
Important MethodsEmbroidery, Appliqué Work.
Main Styles: Aribharat, Banni.
The needlework of Gujarat is famous
the world over for its finesse and precision. Embroidery is Gujarat's
quintessential handicraft and many of the artisans are wives of herdsmen,
nomads and agriculturists battling for a second income.
EMBROIDERY
Embroidery is Gujarat's quintessential handicraft and many of the
artisans are wives of herdsmen, nomads and agriculturists battling for a
second income. The best known is 'aribharat', which is named after 'Ari',
a hook, plied from the top but fed by silk thread from below with the
material spread out on a frame. This movement creates loops, and
repetitions of these movements lead to a line of chain stitches. It is
also known as 'Mochibharat', as it used to be done by 'mochis' (cobblers).
TECHNIQUES DISTINCT
Techniques vary with the community and region. One can look out for the
simple needlework but exquisite effects of Bavalia embroidery to the
fabulous bright yellow and red Banni embroidery; the embroidery of the
Rabari cameleers, reminiscent of their pastoral life style, inlaid with
triangular, square and almond shaped mirrors.
The geometric and floral motifs of the Ahir community with circular
mirrors; the chain stitches and tiny mirrors used by the Jats; the
delicate 'soof ' embroidery of the Sodha Rajputs around Lakhpat ; the tiny
broken mirrors embroidered into fabrics by the Mutwa cameleers; and the
exquisite Mukka embroidery of the Hali putras, Rasipotra and Node herds
people are worth seeing.
APPLIQUE WORK
Applique is an integral part of the decorative needlework of
Gujarat. However, it is distinctive with a style
of it's own. It is based on patchwork, in which pieces of coloured and
patterned fabric is finely cut in different sizes and shapes and sewn
together on a plain background to form a composite piece.
It is therefore done only on items of household use. They are in
brilliant colours and highly ornamented with motifs. The whole charm of an
applique lies in the contours of each individual inset piece.
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