PALOLEM BEACH
Major Attractions: Boat parties, Prime Tour Destination
Nearby Attraction: Agonda, Chaudi
Best Time To Visit: November To March
The Tiny Bay
Palolem, 2-km west of Chaudi, pops up more often in glossy holiday
brochures than any other beach in Goa; not because the village is a major
package tour destination, but because its crescent shaped bay lined with a
swaying curtain of coconut palms, is irresistibly photogenic. Hemmed in by
a pair of wooded headlands, a perfect curve of white sand arcs north from
a pile of hug boulders to the spur of Sahyadri Ghat, which here tapers
into the sea.
Until recently foreign tourists were few and far between in Palolem. Over
the past five or six years, however, increasing numbers of budget
travellers have begun to find their way here, and the village is now far
from the undiscovered idyll it used to be, with a string of cafes,
Karnatakan
hawkers and a tent camp crowding the beachfront.
Souvenir stalls have also sprung up, catering mainly for the mini-van and
boat parties of charter tourists on day trips from resorts further north.
In spite of these encroachments, Palolem remains a resolutely traditional
village, where the easy pace of life is dictated more by the three daily
rounds of Todi (also spelt as Toddy) tapping than the exigencies of
tourism.
LEISURE
EATING OUT
With the beach now lined along its entire length with brightly lit shack
cafes, finding somewhere to eat in
Palolem
is not a problem, although the locals have to buy in most of their fish
from Margao and Karwar. The one outstanding place is the Classic
Restaurant, where one can tuck into delicious, freshly baked Western
wholefood and cakes.
More popular among budget travellers, though, is Sun 'n' Moon, behind the
middle of the beach; when it closes, the die-hard drinkers head through
the palm trees to nearby Dylan's Bar, which stays open until the last
customer has staggered home. For optimum sunset views of the bay, head for
the obscurely named Found Things
bar
and restaurant, at the far southern end of Palolem beach, which faces
west. Travellers on tight budgets should also note the row of tiny Bhaji
stalls outside the Beach Resort, where one can order tasty and filling
breakfasts of Pao Bhaji, fluffy bread rolls, Omlettes and Chai (tea) for
next to nothing.
HOW TO GET THERE
Road: Buses run between Margao and Karwar via Chaudi where one can pick up an auto rickshaw or taxi to Palolem. Alternatively, get off at the Char Rostay crossroads, 1.5-km before Chaudi, and walk the remaining kilometre or so to the village. A couple of buses each day also goes all the way to Palolem from Margao; these stop at the end of the lane leading from the main street to the beachfront. The last bus from Palolem to Chaudi/ Margao leaves at 4.30pm; check with the local for the times, which change seasonally.
PLACES TO STAY
With the exception of the beach Resort's tent camp and a handful or recently built guesthouses, most of Palolem's accommodation consists of simple rooms in family homes, with basic washing and toilet facilities shared by visitors and members of the household. The budget places, however are to be found in Colomb, around the headland south of Palolem village, where Hindu fishing families rent rooms, and occasionally small houses, to long- staying foreigners.
OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION
Cycles On Rent: Cycles may be rented from a stall
halfway along the main street.
Phone: The village has only a couple of public telephones, but
avoid the one in the beach resort, which charges more than double the
going rate for international calls, and head for the reasonable ISD/STD
booth next to the bus stop.
Exchange: At present, there is nowhere in Palolem or Chaudi to
change money; the nearest bank with a foreign exchange facility is in
Margao.
(Check all that apply)
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